Traveling to Afghanistan (written by a guide)

Afghanistan is a land of untamed beauty, steeped in history and brimming with cultural richness. As a guide, I’ve had the privilege of leading travelers through this fascinating country, uncovering its breathtaking landscapes and storied past. This summary highlights a recent trip to Afghanistan, providing an insider’s view of its must-visit destinations, unforgettable moments, and practical insights.

My Trip to Afghanistan (2025)

My tour of Afghanistan had been a dream for many years. Friends working with various organizations often shared stories about current events and the region’s history over the last few decades, which always fascinated me. In recent years, my reading about the history of the Indian subcontinent consistently led me to Afghanistan, a land shaped by countless empires and rulers over the past three thousand years. The most captivating aspect for me was the history of the subcontinent from the 5th century BCE to the 5th century CE.

Following that, I explored the Islamic period, the British influence, the formation of modern Afghanistan, the ongoing conflicts, and the strategic “Great Game” played by emerging superpowers. Afghanistan, being at the crossroads of civilizations, is both blessed and burdened by its geography. It stands as one of the finest examples of a nation shaped by its unique position in global history.

In recent years, many seasoned travelers from the West began exploring Afghanistan. Among them were several of our clients who had previously traveled with us in Pakistan. Inspired by their experiences, I finally decided to embark on my own journey to Afghanistan. I informed my friends in the country that I was on my way. Fortunately, Afghanistan’s tourist visa process is efficient and straightforward. In Islamabad, you can obtain a visa within two days, while in Peshawar, it’s possible to receive it the same day within a few hours, provided all the required documents are in place.

As this was my first trip to Afghanistan, and as a tour organizer, I wanted to personally evaluate the best hotels in each city where I planned to stay. The first challenge arose when I discovered that the Kabul Serena Hotel was fully booked. Despite my Afghan friends’ efforts, they couldn’t secure a room for me. Eventually, a friend who manages the Serena Hotel in Islamabad helped arrange a room at the Kabul Serena. It was a delightful surprise. To my amazement, the hotel was bustling with activity, hosting a trade delegation from Uzbekistan. It was heartening to see neighboring countries like Uzbekistan actively engaging with Afghanistan and participating in its reconstruction.

The hotel was filled with a diverse group of people—Arabs, Indians, Chinese, and businessmen from various countries—all involved in commercial projects, particularly in infrastructure and service industries. I also encountered a few Pakistanis, mostly from NGOs, including a doctor friend and a relative, which was a pleasant surprise.

I flew from Islamabad to Kabul with Kam Air, Afghanistan’s first private airline offering flights to the Middle East, Central Asia, Turkey, and Pakistan. The service was excellent, and the aircraft were well-maintained, which added to the positive experience of my first visit to this historically rich and dynamic country.

Here’s a summary of the places I visited, and the stories I brought back.

Tomb of the Zaheeruddine Babar founder of Mughal Empire at Bagh-e-Babar.

Exploring Kabul

Bagh-e-Babur

My first stop was Bagh-e-Babur, the stunning garden built by Emperor Babur in 1504. The serene beauty of this step garden, restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, was a welcome escape from the bustling city. Babur’s grave, nestled in the garden, is a testament to his wish to be surrounded by nature. The locals, families, and children enjoying the tranquil environment added warmth to the experience.

travel to afghanistan Bagh-e-babar — Bagh-e-babar

Kabul’s Bustling Markets

The markets of Kabul were bustling with activity. Contrary to stereotypes, I saw women actively participating—shopping, dining, and running gift shops near Bagh-e-Babur. This vibrant scene reflected the resilience of Afghan society.

National Museum of Afghanistan

Visiting the National Museum of Afghanistan was both fascinating and sobering. Once home to treasures from Afghanistan’s role along the Silk Road, many artifacts were destroyed or looted during the wars. Despite the losses, the museum still displays a rich collection of items, including ancient Buddhist sculptures, Bactrian gold, and coins from the Greek and Roman periods.

Dar-ul-Aman Palace

This majestic palace, restored to its former glory by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, was a highlight of my Kabul visit. Built during King Amanullah Khan’s reign, the European-style architecture and its location atop a hill provided a glimpse into Afghanistan’s rich history.

Historical and Cultural Insights

Mausoleum of Abdur Rahman Khan

I visited the Mausoleum of Abdur Rahman Khan, the “Iron Amir,” in Zarnegar Park. The striking red dome of the structure was a stark contrast to the whitewashed walls, showcasing the unique blend of Afghan architectural styles.

OMAR Mine Museum

The OMAR Mine Museum in Kabul offered a chilling yet educational experience. With over 50 types of landmines on display, the museum sheds light on the devastating impact of war on Afghan society. I also learned about the infamous “Butterfly Mines,” designed to cause widespread chaos. The museum’s focus on educating school groups is both inspiring and necessary for the country’s future.

Venturing Beyond Kabul

Mes Aynak

Just 40 kilometers south of Kabul lies Mes Aynak, an archaeological site rich in Buddhist history and copper reserves. It was awe-inspiring to learn about the ancient monasteries and chapels that once thrived here. Many artifacts from this site are now safeguarded at the Kabul Museum.

Band-e-Amir National Park

A short trip from Bamyan Valley, Band-e-Amir is Afghanistan’s first national park. The turquoise lakes surrounded by rugged cliffs were a dream for photographers and nature lovers.

Bamyan Valley

The niches of the ancient Buddha statues, though now empty, still exude an aura of peace and reverence. The valley’s breathtaking sunrise over its snow-capped peaks was one of the most serene moments of my trip.

Reflections

Afghanistan is a land of contrasts—devastated by decades of conflict but resilient and vibrant in its culture and hospitality. My trip not only fulfilled a personal dream but also deepened my appreciation for the strength and resilience of its people.

Tips for Future Travelers

1.Plan Ahead: Visa processes and accommodations may vary; working with local contacts is invaluable.

2.Respect Customs: Modesty in dress and behavior is essential for cultural sensitivity.

3.Travel with Purpose: Afghanistan’s history and culture are profound, so approach the journey with curiosity and an open mind.

Afghanistan may not be a destination for everyone, but for those willing to navigate its complexities, it offers experiences and lessons that stay with you forever.